Oliver
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 248
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Post by Oliver on Aug 23, 2007 16:28:04 GMT -5
Do you heard about Alclad-2 laquers? Those are effect enamels with those metallic surfaces to copy leave themselves. www.alclad2.com/alclad-home.html
The rim is sprayed with Alclad polished aluminium:
First you spray gloss black. After drying spray the alclad color with only small preasure on the black color.
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Post by Bri on Aug 25, 2007 15:21:58 GMT -5
I have been puttering with this bomb...ummm...errr..I mean truck today. I painted the tranny as well as the wheel retainers and other motor accessories. I also started assembling the tires and wheels and I am using the cotton method Mark described here a while back. I love the way the kit tires look with the bulge and the wheels do fit a bit better this way as well. I have come to a decision regarding the color blue I am going to use. I am going to lay down a very metallic silver base and then spray transparent blue over the silver base. the effects are stunning and it will go great with the silver and the darker blue I used on the frame and suspension. Hopefully by the end of the weekend the frame will be sitting on the wheels and tires and more progress will be made. I will probably end up foiling many of the chrome pieces to get a bit of luster back as well. Nothing like making more work for myself.
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78KW
Regional OTR Driver
Hard Time don't last...Trucker's do!
Posts: 2,467
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Post by 78KW on Aug 25, 2007 19:05:22 GMT -5
The only pieces that are still chrome are the headlight buckets. Everything else is duller than Aunt Rita's vacation pics from the MidWest Bridge Tournament. :DNow that's funny!!!
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Post by rwaldram on Aug 27, 2007 5:38:15 GMT -5
Believe it or not, i've been having similar problems with the Revell Simba kit. I actually made the chassis purely as a reference point for my scratchbuild (the 6 axle crane mentioned in a few other threads) however i got a bit carried away and started on the body too. There is a box mounted on the rear of the chassis that is way too high and hits one of the roller door slides, there is a peice thats mounted inside the roof that hits another of the roller door slides and to make matters worse, the floor of the main compartment is seriously distorted which indirectly related to the previously mentioned problems but also causes a few more of its own.
Needless to say, i put the bloody thing aside and got back onto my crane. I will however get back to it one day as i have plans to paint it in the colours as used by the Royal Australian Air Force, mount it on a 4x4 low loader and have it sitting behind a kenworth K104 in the colours of the old Tri-Service line haul.
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Post by Bri on Aug 30, 2007 10:44:06 GMT -5
As promised, I FINALLY got some pics taken of the progress I made on this truck. I know it's been awhile, but I didn't see the point in posting more pics until I actually had something worthwhile to shoot pics of. I used Mark's trick of stuffing the tires with cotton to give them a fuller, more realistic appearance as well. I still have 4 more tires and wheels to assemble and I will do that today and hopefully have the frame sitting on the wheels by the end of the day. I also have painting left to do on the engine as well as alot of weathering, and also some touching up to do on some of the frame parts as well, but I will tackle that later today as well. I will also have the cab, sleeper, hood and fenders in primer as well. Anyways, on to the pics...
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twist67
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 205
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Post by twist67 on Aug 30, 2007 17:45:20 GMT -5
Hi there, In my small opinion your nightmare is looking good so far.You have solved the problems with the frame from what I could see...Keep it going,I´m sure it will be a nice truck. I have two of them unbuilt and I sure I´ll build it one day.... Keep it going, cheers,Chris
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Post by Bri on Sept 1, 2007 11:06:12 GMT -5
I got some more work done and had a setback as well. I finally got the rest of the tires and wheels assembled and I also weathered the engine and transmission a bit to give it a more grimy, oily appearance. The air brake cans are installed as well and the tire assemblies are now attached to the frame. While attempting to install the left forward rear assembly the stupid akle broke off at the brake backing backing plate. So, I ended up drilling a hole and installing a piece of rod to mount the assembly on. It turned out decent and as long as it stays I think it will be fine. I took a mockup pic of the cab and sleeper sitting on the frame just to get an idea of how level the truck would sit. it's not going to be too bad I don't think, but then again, it's not completely assembled yet, so who knows? Anyways, here are a couple more pics...
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Post by Bri on Sept 7, 2007 12:01:06 GMT -5
Well, I got the color coats on the body parts this morning. the cab, sleeper and hood are painted in Aquamarine Blue Metallic with the fenders being done in Sterling Silver. The humidity has really killed the paint today though as it is a very milky color. I'm not sure this truck will be salvageable at this point as it is virtually impossible to remove Duplicolor from plastic without ruining the plastic underneath. I'm still going to plug along though and hopefully I will be able to salvage the kit without having to search for another one for the body parts...Why am I not surprised?
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Post by chevymaniac on Sept 7, 2007 22:34:10 GMT -5
Gently wet sand with 2000 and clear coat it...It should knock down the milky haze. Later Dan
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Post by rwaldram on Sept 8, 2007 0:04:12 GMT -5
I recently found (by accident) that the automotive 'cut and polish' cream as sold in automotive care departments strips paints once applied to a cloth and with some gentle rubbing... Also, a friend pointed out to me that one good way of removing paint is with boot polish (no, i'm not joking)
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78KW
Regional OTR Driver
Hard Time don't last...Trucker's do!
Posts: 2,467
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Post by 78KW on Sept 8, 2007 0:14:02 GMT -5
I've used ELO by Polly S to remove Duplicolor from plastic, just don't leave on too long. Brush it on, when the paint starts to lift and crack, scrub with a toothbrush. Rinse off with soap and warm water, and repeat until clean. You may have to sand it smooth when finished, but my Autocar went through it ok.
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78KW
Regional OTR Driver
Hard Time don't last...Trucker's do!
Posts: 2,467
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Post by 78KW on Sept 8, 2007 0:15:49 GMT -5
Bri, I looked on my dash and realized that I 4got something. Your bumper will be on its way. LOL. Sorry.
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Post by Bri on Sept 8, 2007 9:35:21 GMT -5
Thanks for the tips and ideas guys. I will probably try to do something with it all tomorrow if I get a chance. I puttered with the interior yesterday as well and will try to get that put together so I can start the final assemblies of this kit so I can start my CBP truck. I have forced myself to finish this truck before starting my Astro, so needless to say, I really need to get this finished up and soon. And don't worry Ray, I have plenty to do before I worry about the bumper.
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78KW
Regional OTR Driver
Hard Time don't last...Trucker's do!
Posts: 2,467
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Post by 78KW on Sept 8, 2007 18:33:35 GMT -5
Sounds like the kind of harsh rule I have on myself, "You can't start this one until you finish that one." Sort of like that screaming voice in the background on Pink Floyd's "The Wall", " You can't have any pudding if you don't eat your meat". So that being said, I don't think I will be cracking open any new kits soon, just finishing my started projects.
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sourkraut
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 151
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Post by sourkraut on Sept 8, 2007 20:13:25 GMT -5
Lacquer has a strange property known as blushing, this happens on humid days due to the fact that lacquer dries from the outside in trapping any moisture embedded in the paint film during atomization. The only way to avoid this is to slow down the drying process with a slow thinner ( won't work in spray cans ) or to use enamel. Having access to urethane paints in my shop, that is what I prefer. Hardened urethanes dry by chemical reaction like epoxy and are not susceptible to blushing, they are also very plastic friendly (single stage not base/clear) and work fine over automotive spray can sandable primers. As for your current situation, take it from someone who cut his teeth on lacquer. Give it a light scuff and re-shoot it on a dry day, all will be well.
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