Post by truckabilly on Apr 15, 2012 8:22:16 GMT -5
I added yet another detail to the bottom of the cab. The lines end in a blind spot because I truely don´t know where the lines go.
The cab & sleeper assembly is now glued to the frame. It took some effort to align it alright but finally I got the right position with the hood. I hope the cab steps will fit in their place too. The air filter just sits on the engine. It will require some balancing too to get in place alright.
Post by truckabilly on Apr 20, 2012 15:55:24 GMT -5
Thank you guys. Not everything goes as smooth as I wish. When I tried to insert the headlight in its place I touched the hood with my glue stained finger and ruined the paint job.
This is after partial repair.
One of the things that I worried from the start was how the cab, sleeper, frame and cab steps would fit at the end. And I really found some differencies on each side.
I had to add this channel to keep the distance between the steps and the cab.
The lips on the fender and the cab steps are in line now but the gap under the cab is too big. Something went wrong. Either the position of the battery boxes or the cab mounting points. I don´t know if can do something about it now. I am not eager to tear it all apart. But I´ll have to I guess.
Post by brockway359 on Apr 21, 2012 7:30:09 GMT -5
Since the cab and the rear portion of the fender are molded as one piece, I would say the problem is in the part. not something you did wrong. I have built a couple of these trucks, but never used the tank fairings so I can't say for sure. The first picture of the driver's side is to high, the second too low, maybe split the difference? Good job on the paint repair, it would be a shame to have to redo such a nice paint job. Steve
Post by truckabilly on Apr 21, 2012 16:43:44 GMT -5
I don´t have any plan on that yet. I don´t build trailers because of the room reasons. I have AMT flatbed, the Peerless logging trailer and Italeri Baywatch van. Still in boxes. None of them fits to this truck I think. Maybe the Italeri van. But it takes some redo to make it look like real. I really don´t know at the moment. Jarda
Post by truckabilly on Apr 25, 2012 17:25:04 GMT -5
I finished the coil cables and installed them onto the truck. The spring is a lead wire 0,4 mm winded around another wire. I left that one inside so that the lead wire has a solid base. The black loop holding the coil cables is an adhesive tape... two layers stuck together. The glad hands are scratch built.
The fuel tanks are in place. The alclad chrome surface is not a dream come true. It takes a better spraying tool or a better modeler. The stripes are photo etched, nickel surface.
The rear fenders are taken from RoG Peterbilt 359. I left them in Revell chrome. The mudflaps and brackets are still in progress.
Post by truckabilly on Apr 28, 2012 14:53:55 GMT -5
I had to deal with another problem. The roof fairing didn´t fit quite right.
I measured the position of the pre-drilled holes on the sleeper roof and they were slightly off the axis. I had to drill four new holes and fill-in the old ones. Too bad since the sleeper was painted already.
I superglued Evergreen round rods in the holes, cut them flush with roof surface and sanded them smooth... well, smooth... not enough though.
I am sorry for the blurry pictures. I do not have any better. I mixed the original wine red with black to get a much darker shade. I needed that so the color would cover the white ends of the rods and traces of sandpaper work. I sprayed a few thin layers. I smooth sanded each one of them and polished the spots with GT31 finishing cloth of GSI. Then I lightened the shade again to prevent the dark spots from building up too much. Again, I sprayed a few thin layers and plished them with the GT31 cloth every time. Finally I added one more layer over the whole roof. This one will be wax polished after the paint cures. Here is a few pictures in chronological order as the repair workflow went.
The repair took me the whole Saturday morning. It is not perfect but I´ve learned something new.