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Post by muleskinner on May 5, 2011 22:06:06 GMT -5
Did some more on the Lidgerwood and added the tower and extended the front decking to accept it and the turnstile for the front boom. The tower is yet to be finished and is removable from the deck so I can complete its top pivot point for the Mast and add the other pieces to the ladder on the left side (facing) and the right side. I needed a 9.75 ft diameter turnstile fr the loading boom so instead of cutting one I found that a blank DVD-R was exactly the width I needed so I super glued one to the front deck.  The tower is taking by far, most of the time, as I have a bunch of riveting to do on it as I go along. I added the upper left hand section of the ladder to it to give an idea of the layout of the rest of the unit.   The deck after it was extended had to have two holes cut into it as there are lines which run down from the secondary winch's in this position which run to the Car spotting rollers in the front and the rear of the Lidgerwood. The main winch for raising and lowering the main mast is also located here beneath the tower and runs under and up to the hole just between the tower and the main winches.  The secondary winch frame which will sit under the tower at the base was then added. Because the walls of the frame are 6 In in width I decided as with other models not to laminate the plastic to get the width as this is to much usage of plastic which could other wise be used for something else. Instead I choose to use bass wood spacers as I do with wide plastic to get the width.   This system would also work for those of you who build dumps and any other type trailers which require wide plastic. Merely cut two outside patterns in plastic and adjust the width by adding wooden block shims between the plastic pattern. It will save a lot of plastic in the long run, not to mention expense. I had to make two side units plus on center divider and then added the ends and the attachment plates for the steam driver cylinders to mount on.   The basic winch frame test set beneath the tower unit.   The final fitting after painting of the winch frame. I will be removing it and adding the spin bearings where the winch axles ride and the winches, plus the other details to it next. Also I have to add the right side front raiser to the decking so I can be able to move the whole unit around for fitting out. Any comments or questions appreciated |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on May 6, 2011 8:30:30 GMT -5
Excellent work! I love the details that you put into your models.
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Post by muleskinner on May 12, 2011 22:52:33 GMT -5
At this point in building I have completed adding the tower gang winches which are used to tighten the guy wires of the spar tower. I would also at this point like to explain at best how I weather using Acrylic paint (water Base), in the best way I can. First after the main coat of paint , which in this case is Gloss Black, has dried, i begin the process of stressing the Black and bringing it into an oxidized stage.  I choose to use Polly Scale Model railroad Paint, as it is easier to control and flows beautiful in water. The colors are from left to right. F414317 Concrete F414314 Mud F414303 Dirt F414311 Earth F414281 Boxcar Red - This color I use for a dried red clay effect. F414323 Rust These paints are also ditributed by Testors, and available from Micro-mark. The first step is to wash the whole of the area of black paint with a mix of Water and concrete. To do this I use a fairly large brush and dip it in water, and without knocking off any excess water I barely dip the tip of the brush into the paint, in this case #F414317 Concrete, just enough where the water draws the paint into the brush. I then start washing it over the model in a mopping motion until the black looks washed out. Here I want to make a point of keeping the color as Transparent as possible so as to not loose the depth of the Black paint. Once this is done and the desired effect is reached I let it dry thoroughly.   The pictures above show the Halfway done stressing process of the upper tower deck. The Oxidized area clearly is shown in both photos as well as the un washed Gloss Black base paint.   The above photos show the total stressing when completed and now in the drying stage. When the drying is completed, I begin the rusting stage. Here is where I change the whole of the process. To begin I wash the whole area with plain water and then dip my brush into the rust colored paint. I then pick certain points and just touch the brush and paint to the water. because of the flowing properties of the paint it will migrate out from the brush and follow the water. I do this several times in different places and let the water do the rusting for me. One note here is that the surface is horizontal so do not move the model, let the paint and water do the work for you. If it runs over the edge and down the sides, don't worry about as rusty stains do this in nature also.  Water wash to one side of flooring.  The dabbing effect with the rust. Here you can see how it moves around following the water.   For the pipeing I do not use the stressing stage with Concrete color. I do the same as with the rust. Water and then rust letting the water and gravity flow it down the pipes. Around the joints I give it a straight rust no water for a darker look.  In the photo above I think you will be able to see the difference in the rust on the pipeing and the rust on the floor. Once I get the rusting stage done I go into the oil stain phase and here I spare no stain. Loggers have a habit of over oiling everything and especially in the winter. I use for this phase either Black Calligraphy Ink or Model Master ACRYL #4695. Here I do the same as previously mentioned. Where I want the oil I apply water first and then dab a little black paint or ink to the area and let gravity and the water do the work as like before mentioned, the color will begin to flow into the water. If it is too dark I mearly add a little more water and mop out the edges until it becomes a transparent black film. I then let the whole area dry as before.    The photos above show the area in the completed stage. Here to I might add that once the whole of the model is dry, I go back in and high light the rivet heads and other edges with straight rust from the bottle and no water, for shading. At this point also I add a few silver scratches to any where a loggers Caulked Boots (corks to those of us who were in the logging industry) might have made contact with the metal. this I do using the dry brushing method of very little paint on the brush and swiping it across the deck.    Photos of the gang winches to include the drive rod from the 4X10 steam driver above deck and the braking wheel which is operated also from above deck. I will add more a soon as I attach the tower back to the main deck and re apply its top. |
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Post by gatormarcstaug on May 13, 2011 0:04:47 GMT -5
Fantastic work. Great tutorial on weathering!
Gator
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Post by truckabilly on May 13, 2011 2:56:23 GMT -5
Thanks for explaining your way of weathering. Great tutorial, sure comes handy.
Jarda
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truckmaniac
Local Delivery Truck Driver
An other town,an other place,an other truck,an other race !
Posts: 378
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Post by truckmaniac on May 18, 2011 10:21:38 GMT -5
very interesting machine,fantastic build and weathering on it.
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Post by muleskinner on May 26, 2011 15:22:35 GMT -5
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truckmaniac
Local Delivery Truck Driver
An other town,an other place,an other truck,an other race !
Posts: 378
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Post by truckmaniac on Jun 2, 2011 0:36:16 GMT -5
Amazing,absolutely authentic look of the rust and dirt and grease man.Respect,thumbs up!!!
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Post by truckabilly on Jun 2, 2011 16:19:48 GMT -5
Absolutely brilliant Muleskinner. Hope you don´t run out of steam till it´s finished. That´s really amazing amount of work that you put in this build.
Jarda
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Post by muleskinner on Aug 18, 2011 14:13:23 GMT -5
I'm finally back in the swing of things full throttle and completed the Mast for the Lidgerwood after being away for awhile. The mast is a scale 85 ft in length and will when mounted bring the model to a scale 105 scale feet tall. All the rigging on the tower (Yellow Cord) are the main sky line which the carriage will ride on and the tightening line which keeps the weight and tension on the tower when in operation. The small lines with the blocks on the ends are the guy lines (4) which keep the tower in its upright position during operation. These lines are anchored at the top and then are threaded down through the inside of the tower to the bottom and are connected to the four winching units located in the top of the tower of the Lidgerwood. The two large blocks laying loose are the skidder line and haul back line guides. The two blocks with the gold chain on them in the front are the guides for the tightening line and skyline and guide the lines down to the main winches on the Lidgerwood in front of the boiler. The riveting work and the main hoisting block is yet to be added but this will give you an idea of how large this project is going to be, when finished.  The RC can is there to illustrate the size comparison of the tower.   |
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Aug 18, 2011 14:17:20 GMT -5
Wow! This thing is going to be huge.
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dave54tf
Local Delivery Truck Driver
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Post by dave54tf on Aug 18, 2011 14:29:44 GMT -5
now that is impressive !!! reminds me of when i was coach driving in the south of the u k & used to go to a model enginering show , was allways amazed , how big will it be when it is finished ?? looking forward to seeing the finished thing
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Post by muleskinner on Aug 18, 2011 14:43:35 GMT -5
This is the 6-7 hoisting block which is used to raise and lower the mast of the Lidgerwood. The yellow cord is only temporary as the it wiil be restrung from the main hoisting unit drum at the front base of the tower on the main deck of the lidgerwood. The 6-7 will be attached to the end, below the knee bend and tower mount of the main mast in the above section.    The photo below shows the 1:1 with the 6-7 mounted at the foot of the tower and attached to the main flooring of the Lidgerwood.  |
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Post by muleskinner on Aug 18, 2011 15:06:42 GMT -5
now that is impressive !!! reminds me of when i was coach driving in the south of the u k & used to go to a model enginering show , was allways amazed , how big will it be when it is finished ?? looking forward to seeing the finished thing Right now the main Lidgerwood model is about 4' 9" long at my best guess and with just the main tower without the mast, it stands about sixteen inches tall. when I add the mast it should bring it aproximetly to a heigth of (just guessing) 5' or close to it as there still has to be wricked wooden raisers put under the four main steel raisers of the lidgerwood itself. All and all it will be a huge monster in 1/25th scale as the 1:1 is in real life. William |
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Post by gatormarcstaug on Aug 18, 2011 16:54:31 GMT -5
William,
i am glad to see you are feeling better. And again working on this beast. On your 6-7 pulleys did you makes sheaves or just a roller for the cable? Whatever you did. I looks good!!
Gator
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