norseman
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 52
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Rivets
Sept 24, 2007 19:24:20 GMT -5
Post by norseman on Sept 24, 2007 19:24:20 GMT -5
Ok, my Peterbilt day cab has arrived from STS finally. However the thought never occured to me until I looked at it that the cab riveting is not there. What is a goo source for this or an easy way to produce them on my own?
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norseman
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 52
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Rivets
Sept 24, 2007 19:26:30 GMT -5
Post by norseman on Sept 24, 2007 19:26:30 GMT -5
By the way this is for my pete heavy haul project. I will post some updated pics this weekend. Still working on the chassis. Work is taking to much time out of my building this project.
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oldcat
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 143
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Rivets
Sept 24, 2007 20:37:18 GMT -5
Post by oldcat on Sept 24, 2007 20:37:18 GMT -5
Are you sure it's an STS cab...I have the same one and it's full of rivet detail.
As far as those rivets go, and the fact I make rivets for a living, those head diameters are going to be roughly 5/8" in diameter and about .085 thick for head thickness. Most likely made in 430 stainless steel. Ozark minitures , I think, makes rivet heads small enough to work. Lay a pencil line down on the cab and install/glue each one on at a time, on that line to keep them straight. I did a G scale vanderbuilt tender with dress makers pins for rivets{too big for this application} in that manor...looked good. An old school trick is glue dots for rivet heads, but consistency is an issue there. I agree, anyone have a tried and true way for model trucks?! Inquirering minds wish to know....
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Rivets
Sept 24, 2007 21:21:52 GMT -5
Post by chevymaniac on Sept 24, 2007 21:21:52 GMT -5
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norseman
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 52
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Rivets
Sept 25, 2007 11:57:14 GMT -5
Post by norseman on Sept 25, 2007 11:57:14 GMT -5
Thanks guys, I will make one of these work.
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norseman
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 52
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Rivets
Sept 25, 2007 11:58:35 GMT -5
Post by norseman on Sept 25, 2007 11:58:35 GMT -5
Also, yes Deffinatly am STS cab. Just got it from sharon.
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oldcat
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 143
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Rivets
Sept 25, 2007 21:08:24 GMT -5
Post by oldcat on Sept 25, 2007 21:08:24 GMT -5
Thanks dan...too cool. I'm glad I'm not the guy running that header! I thought working with .030 wire was bad enough...I usualy run .180, .242, and .305/.310 dia wire. You have to grab about ten pieces of .030 work to get just one to stay between your fingers to inspect it...and a good 10x eye loupe didn't hurt either{5x is normal}.
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Rivets
Sept 25, 2007 21:31:04 GMT -5
Post by chevymaniac on Sept 25, 2007 21:31:04 GMT -5
Did you see those small nuts and bolts....What kind of wrench do you use for those??
Dan
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Rivets
Sept 25, 2007 21:33:25 GMT -5
Post by chevymaniac on Sept 25, 2007 21:33:25 GMT -5
I like brass rivets because if you have to do some body work you're almost certain you can't sand off the rivets.
Dan
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oldcat
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 143
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Rivets
Sept 28, 2007 22:30:26 GMT -5
Post by oldcat on Sept 28, 2007 22:30:26 GMT -5
Dan, that CDA260 brass I bet they're probably using is kinda soft...go with the stainless for better durability and abrasion resistance. ...and never 1100 series aluminum...you can make a mark in it with your finger nail!
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oldcat
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 143
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Rivets
Sept 28, 2007 22:46:45 GMT -5
Post by oldcat on Sept 28, 2007 22:46:45 GMT -5
I bet those rivets are turned on a lathe...I can see the nut bolt combos are....hex rod stock. I just sent them a question about what the head thickness is on those rivets...wonder if they make them or if they're from over seas?
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Rivets
Oct 8, 2007 21:43:39 GMT -5
Post by dieseldoc on Oct 8, 2007 21:43:39 GMT -5
An easier way to duplicate rivets is with a metal tipped mechnical pencil and metal duct tape that the sheet metal workers use. Remove the lead from the mechanical pencil and sharpen the tip of the pencil with some sand paper. Go to the local harware store and get your self the real metal duct tape. This stuff is silver in color and is adheasive backed. about 5 bucks for a roll that will out last our life time of building. Press the tip of the pencil into the tape but not through the backing. The rivet you just made should be stuck inside the tip of the pencil now. To remove the rivet, place the pencil tip where you want the rivet to be and push the button than normally advances the pencil lead. This will apply your rivet right where you want it to be. A 0.5 mechanical pencil will reproduce a rivet head just shy of a scale half inch diameter. A 0.7 mechanical pencil will reproduce a rivet head around a scale 5/8 inch in diameter Hope this helps.
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