A Question for Rebuilders

[jimr600]

I'm currently redoing a few trucks and I have a few questions.

What method do you use for removing glued parts?
And
What method do you use for removing paint?

Thanks
Jim.

[phoneguy]

stripping paint--purple super clean--does a good job, may require a little scrubbing (toothbrush)--beware--it'll each the chrome off.

glued parts--I think you're stuck with that one.

[Rustycab]

You can buy debonder at any hobby shop Its mainly for the Fast glue but will work on old model glue Use it sparingly, It will soften plastic, Haze glass and remove chrome

Craig

[mullett471]

you could try this one which was in Truck Model World magazine:
place the parts you want to "unglue" into warm (not hot!! ) water for a little while to allow the water to get into all the cracks & crevices,then place the parts in to a plastic shopping bag & put in the freezer!
As the water freezes it will expand in the cracks & crevices and should just "push" them apart
I haven't tried it myself but others do say it works!

[longhaul]

Have to agree with Phoneguy, Rustycab, and Mullett all of
the methods work.

I personally don't like the Purple Super Clean because of the
time and work involved. I am a very very lazy and retired model
truck builder. In the Micro Mark Tool Catalog I found a small
sand blaster kit. It fills the bill perfectly. But most of my building
is done on old used trucks, ( rebuilds ).

As far as the unglueing goes, I don't like to use the debond
er as like Rustycab says it will soften the plastic, also if sometimes you don't get it all wiped off or washed off it can make
regluing a real pain in the rear side. The freezing trick works
and it works well, As Mullett says soak it for about an hour in warm water, put in a zip lock bag and pop in the freezer for a
couple of days.

Longhaul

[bandit1]

longhaul said:

Have to agree with Phoneguy, Rustycab, and Mullett all of
the methods work.

I personally don't like the Purple Super Clean because of the
time and work involved. I am a very very lazy and retired model
truck builder. In the Micro Mark Tool Catalog I found a small
sand blaster kit. It fills the bill perfectly. But most of my building
is done on old used trucks, ( rebuilds ).

As far as the unglueing goes, I don't like to use the debond
er as like Rustycab says it will soften the plastic, also if sometimes you don't get it all wiped off or washed off it can make
regluing a real pain in the rear side. The freezing trick works
and it works well, As Mullett says soak it for about an hour in warm water, put in a zip lock bag and pop in the freezer for a
couple of days.

Longhaul

i never knew about the freezing trick!
ill try that on a kit i want to rebuild!

[ajy]

the freezing works for unglueing.DONT use debonder as it will eat the plastic.i use clorox bleach to take the paint off.it takes a day or so,but it works!also good for chrome removal.

[jimr600]

Thanks for the tips guys. I have a Revell 359 that I'm re-working for a show. Thanks a lot.

[Deleted]

Also for unglueing I've used the liquid cement from testors. The bottle with the brush in it. Just spread a little on the glue seam and let it start softening the joint. Gently start to pry the parts from each other. If it is still bonded add a little more fresh liquid. It's always worked for me.