phoneguy
Regional OTR Driver
if you're done with it, it's not finished!
Posts: 2,278
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Post by phoneguy on Sept 1, 2007 23:32:38 GMT -5
short & simple--what do you use for weathering?
Jerry
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Post by Bri on Sept 2, 2007 10:07:43 GMT -5
I use thinned paint and I also love using pastel chalk. Pastels come in a variety of colors that resemble dirt, dust, mud colors and other shades to replicate weathered and leaking parts on trucks. I also use thineed paint to represent rust and oil stains on engines and suspension parts...the combo of both work great for me...
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Post by chevymaniac on Sept 2, 2007 22:15:00 GMT -5
My main tools for weathering is the airbrush and chalks. I'll put a wirebrush on my Dremel and rub it oil pastels to make a very fine dust. I'll mix the chalk with some thinner and some dullcoat about 1/3 of each and put a fine spray where I need it. if I want some accumulation of chalk I'll mix it with dullcoat and brush it on first and then go over with the air brush. After the airbrushing is done I use a paint brush dipped in clean thinner to wash and blend. Spray the whole thing with Dull coat and Thats all. At first it was hard to acheive the look I wanted but it gets easier.
Later Dan
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oldcat
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 143
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Post by oldcat on Sept 3, 2007 17:00:16 GMT -5
"Burnt" or "raw sienna" washes for rust...heavily thinned black for oil stains or bringing out panel lines...heavily thinned "sand" for dirty areas. All these are model master color names, but other brands will work too. I've done quite a few washes with the armor mondels I've done. All these washes are applied over a flat base...they blend in better than on a gloss base. One can clear coat over later and seal everything in.
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phoneguy
Regional OTR Driver
if you're done with it, it's not finished!
Posts: 2,278
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Post by phoneguy on Sept 3, 2007 17:04:20 GMT -5
thanks guys. didn't know where to start except by asking.
Jerry
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oldcat
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 143
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Post by oldcat on Sept 3, 2007 20:54:22 GMT -5
Jerry, you can make a rig look anything from slightly dirty to full on ready for the bone yard{and not in a good way}. When you really thin out paint for doing washes, it will, when dry, actually be able to rub off...so handle the model as little as possible or grab in an unweathered area every time. You'll need to seal all and any of the weathering you do{especially powders} with a clear...whether it be gloss, semi gloss or flat and you'll find you'll loose a bit of that weathering you put on from the application of the clear sealing coat...experiment on an old model or a piece of sheet stock{full sheet} and you'll see what I mean.......practice and go with what you like or think looks good. P.S. - don't forget you can do this to your truck windows too, just mask off where the wiper blades would have cleared the windshield....a sharp blade can put "cracks" in the glass too for the look of a stone chip...
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phoneguy
Regional OTR Driver
if you're done with it, it's not finished!
Posts: 2,278
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Post by phoneguy on Sept 3, 2007 21:05:03 GMT -5
thanks Bob.
Jerry
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Post by DoubleBarrel on Sept 5, 2007 7:19:01 GMT -5
I try and use "real" weathering like I use TN red clay dirt that I have rubed into a fine powder for the dirt look and when I want things to look muddy I take the dirt powder and dust it on an area that was dampened with a little water that way it doesn't look to thick. The thined paint is the best for oil stains and bringing out details like pannel lines dirty thinner is also good for the grimy effect . all of us have our own styles or favorite tricks but I feel what ever works for you or what ever gives you the look you are wanting to get then go for it and have fun.......................
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78KW
Regional OTR Driver
Hard Time don't last...Trucker's do!
Posts: 2,467
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Post by 78KW on Sept 5, 2007 22:16:16 GMT -5
Having access 2 the real thing helps ;D. 4 instance, take your kit's 5th wheel, and dab the top surface into the grease on the real thing. Slide your now greased 5th wheel under the nose of your trailer the same way a real tractor hooks up, which will leave grease on the trailer, including the very bottom edge of the trailer's nose. You have just simulated the way greased 5th wheels dirty a trailer. Also, don't 4get the little globs that fall to the slider plate as the trailer scrapes off grease when coupling. You can use other real genuine truck grime on your model as well. Granted, not everyone here drives a truck or can get to one , but you can get engine grime from your car for your truck's engine, just don't overdo it. Another thing I do is make my own real rust. All you do is find a metal can that you think will rust, put some water in, and then put the can where it won't be disturbed 4 a few weeks. After awhile, the water will rust the can. Depending on how long you left it will determine the darkness of it. Dip in your brush, brush your part. When the water dries, your part is rusty. I discovered this one by accident :-[when I was 13, been doing it ever since. ;D Do you smoke? Save your ashes. Keep them in like a ziploc bag. Close the bag and just squeeze and crush the ashes into a powder. You now have a whitish-grayish weathering powder. Hey, may as well use our bad habit 2 our advantage right? Also, if you can get the latest issue of Scale Auto Enthusiast, it has a good article on weathering in the Truck Stop column this month
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Post by Bri on Sept 6, 2007 15:55:27 GMT -5
Also, if you can get the latest issue of Scale Auto Enthusiast, it has a good article on weathering in the Truck Stop column this month In my opinion, that weathering article was one of the best columns in recent memory for the Commercial column. That was a great looking dump in that article, that's for sure.
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oldcat
Local Delivery Truck Driver
Posts: 143
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Post by oldcat on Sept 6, 2007 20:16:22 GMT -5
Ray, I used BB's when I was young...after a week in water I had a rust wash.
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78KW
Regional OTR Driver
Hard Time don't last...Trucker's do!
Posts: 2,467
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Post by 78KW on Sept 6, 2007 20:24:56 GMT -5
sweet, now I know another way 2 do it. thanks
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