what kind of glue do you use???

[shuvlhd69]

I'm looking for some imput on glue. I use superglue for bare plastic, 5 min. epoxy for resin & anything that needs extra support & the trusty "red tube" from testors for painted parts. (excl. glass & small parts which I use clear silicone) what do you use?? what works the best w/ what media? & what should people stay away from? I'm hopeing that this will not only help me, but others too.

[phoneguy]

superglue & 5 min epoxy on resin, regular plastic--still the trusty tube, but mainly Amroid liquid--this stuff is great, works almost instantly.

[signature600]

My Favourite is revell contacta, works very well, don't make a mistake when it sets, doesn't come apart very easy, and you can't use the fridge trick on it either
What I also do for resin in some cases is use 5 min epoxy, and glue a very thin sheet of styrene on to it, then you can use the contacta to glue the parts together, and use the thin styrene as a sump gasket, or head gasket

[78KW]

I still use "old faithful", the red tube from Testors. I think it works fairly well, and it's easiest for me to get on the road. Although, it's a little harder now that Wal Mart quit carrying it. It's even worked on the occasional small resin part, but I still haven't tried many others yet.

Testors makes a metal glue in a green tube. It's alright, but I had to work with it a little. So far, I only used it to cement the intake stack on my Astro daycab in place. It's a K and S brass tube. It's holding.

I have used liquid cement, but I guess it took too long for me, as I never became a big fan of it, although if I work with it more, or use the right stuff, I probably will use it more. As far as superglue I use it b4 painting, to avoid the white fog that comes afterwards.

[mountaindewd]

For pieces staying together through paint and final assembly, Tenax 7 or Ambroid proweld. Resin, 5 min. epoxy, bare resin to resin and metal. Zap CA randomly wherever I feel it's best. Sometime, CA is better as the hold is stronger such as frame stretches. There isn't enough surface contact for the welders to work good, they'll hold but will break easily. Even had it happen with the spanner strip in place on the inside of the frame.

Les

[plastictrucker]

Good ol' testors red.I 've used super glue for a few things.For windows and lights I use white glue because it drys clear.
KEVIN

[Deleted]

Currently using Testors liquid cement. Seems to work well. Also use Duro Quick Gell Super Glue & Duro Super Glue (more liquidy). For windows & chrome that will be seen I use a clear 5 minute epoxy that I picked up at Ace. Planning on trying some Gator Glue in the near future, but as it's acrylic I'll wait to order it until it stays above freezing.

[dieseldoc]

I use a multitude of glues. Super glue I will use with photoetch parts unless the surface they are going on has been painted with lacquer. Super glue and lacquer don't play well together. For bare plastic I was using Tenex7R applied with a touch n flow aplicator. This works very good but I was recently turned on to a glue called Weld On 3. this also is a liquid glue and is much better than the Tenex and cheaper. $5.00 for 4 ounces versus $4.99 for an ounce of Tenex. For chrome trim ie. clearance / marker lights, emblems I use Boyds High Gloss Enamel clear by testors. This works extremely well. Just paint it on the back of the part and let it dry. I have yet to have a piece fall off after the clear dries.
For those of you that are getting the white fog with super glue. If you clean your parts with warm soapy water and only handle them after that with latex gloves you will not get that white fog. The white fog comes from the super glue reacting with skin oils that are left behind when handling the parts or model.
As far as liquid glues taking to long the only few I have found to be slow are the Testors and the Ambroid. I tend to stay away from these unless I am laminating .010 sheet or smaller. But they are in my arsenal of adheasives. I will also use 5 minute epoxy from time to time but it will only be the type that dries perfectly clear.

[455 Rocket]

I almost exclusively use CA whether the part is painted or not. I've recently started using clear paint to install my windows and some small chrome pieces. Craig

[78KW]

Mar 15, 2009 11:18:51 GMT -5 @dieseldoc said:

I use a multitude of glues. Super glue I will use with photoetch parts unless the surface they are going on has been painted with lacquer. Super glue and lacquer don't play well together. For bare plastic I was using Tenex7R applied with a touch n flow aplicator. This works very good but I was recently turned on to a glue called Weld On 3. this also is a liquid glue and is much better than the Tenex and cheaper. $5.00 for 4 ounces versus $4.99 for an ounce of Tenex. For chrome trim ie. clearance / marker lights, emblems I use Boyds High Gloss Enamel clear by testors. This works extremely well. Just paint it on the back of the part and let it dry. I have yet to have a piece fall off after the clear dries.
For those of you that are getting the white fog with super glue. If you clean your parts with warm soapy water and only handle them after that with latex gloves you will not get that white fog. The white fog comes from the super glue reacting with skin oils that are left behind when handling the parts or model.
As far as liquid glues taking to long the only few I have found to be slow are the Testors and the Ambroid. I tend to stay away from these unless I am laminating .010 sheet or smaller. But they are in my arsenal of adheasives. I will also use 5 minute epoxy from time to time but it will only be the type that dries perfectly clear.

Interesting info Mark. I never knew about the fog being a chemical reaction with skin oils.

[scottwp72]

What's goin' on...

Here's what I use.

[kenworthdragon1]

i use model glue from dollarama here

it works better then the testors stuff i have used

travis l