bending styrene rod.

[plastictrucker]

I want to make a logger type headache rack for my lowboy truck(for a different look).I've tried bending both hollow and solid for pickup bumpers and roll bar/tire rack before,but gave up trying.Anybody got any tips.Also any photo"s or dimensions of a logger headache rack would be appreciated.

[sourkraut]

Check Plastruct www.plastruct.com. They have insert wire to be used in their tube. The site can be hard to navigate, try looking up MIW-2 and TB-3. Another option and one that works great for custom fitted exhaust parts, are the pre formed bends (E,EF,EL,ELF etc.). Combined with the TB numbers for straight sections.

[Spider]

I have bent hollow round stock using both wire and smaller solid stock inside to support the walls. This worked well. Solid rod has given me some problems in that it wants to kink and thin at the bend point. Something like an automotive brake line bender might work but this would probably be for too large a diameter. Maybe someone will shed some light on how they do it.

[chevymaniac]

My suggestion would be to make it out of solder. Bends easy and come in lots of sizes and CA glue loves it. It wont kink when it's bent.

Later
Dan

[locoengr]

chevymaniac said:

My suggestion would be to make it out of solder. Bends easy and come in lots of sizes and CA glue loves it. It wont kink when it's bent.

Later
Dan

can solder be painted? Or does the solder tend to keep bleeding thru the paint? I've seen it used, quite nicely too!, for custom made exhaust headers.

[Bri]

I also use aluminum tubing. the CA glue works great and I have used the aluminum tubing to fabricate rollcages for my Nascar builds. There are tons of bends in those rollcages and I have had no issues with the tubing kinking. Patience is vital when using aluminum tubing though.
I actually found the styrene rod tends to like to bend back to it's original shape after being bent and glued. This has been an issue with a few of my roll cages that have been completed and finished. I have a few models that now need the cages redone because the styrene rod has seperated and the paint and so forth has cracked as well.
Just my 2 cents worth...

[plastictrucker]

admin said:

I also use aluminum tubing. the CA glue works great and I have used the aluminum tubing to fabricate rollcages for my Nascar builds. There are tons of bends in those rollcages and I have had no issues with the tubing kinking. Patience is vital when using aluminum tubing though.
I actually found the styrene rod tends to like to bend back to it's original shape after being bent and glued. This has been an issue with a few of my roll cages that have been completed and finished. I have a few models that now need the cages redone because the styrene rod has seperated and the paint and so forth has cracked as well.
Just my 2 cents worth...

Where would one get such stuff?I think 2 or 3 millimeter stuff.

[Bri]

I get my tubing from the hobbyshop. He has it right in the same department as the Plastruct styrene and tubing...

[chevymaniac]

locoengr said:

chevymaniac said:

My suggestion would be to make it out of solder. Bends easy and come in lots of sizes and CA glue loves it. It wont kink when it's bent.

Later
Dan

can solder be painted? Or does the solder tend to keep bleeding thru the paint? I've seen it used, quite nicely too!, for custom made exhaust headers.

Yes, just scuff it with 3M pad and prime befrore you paint.

Also, you can make it out of brass rod and solder the joints...would make it look really realistic.

Later
Dan

[tabletoptrucker]

Here's what I got to bend tube, these are from Du-Bro Products
The Larger one is for 5/32, and the smaller is 1/8 but will do 1/16 as well. I also have a set of the spring rolled steel benders.


The one thing you always have to remember with any bender, you pretty much have to stick to shallow angles and do multiple pieces to optain the bend you need.

Or use Solder

Seems to be the material of the day... 2 different post with solder mentioned.

Robert

[scones78]

i use ordinary old plastrust hollow tubing for my cabguards,
the trick i use is to mark where you would like the bend and patiently heat over a candle or simalar until its starts to bend itself turn it over to the angle and let the heat do its job,i use this method all the time and works fine for me,
below is an example


cheers danny

[cdntrucker]

That headache rack is fine...like "Fine Scale Modeler".

Great job.

Could you post a tutorial?

GC

[scones78]

thanks,i am working on a scania logger at the moment and i need to scratchbuild the cabguard for it in the next day or two,this one is a different design but i will take some pics as i go,i will however be doing both the front and rear guards for a scratchbuilt skel trailer in a week or two and these will be simalar to the pictured one so i will also take some pics of those
cheers danny

[roadwarrior]

You could also use the molded 90 degree sections of plastic sprue that your parts trees are made with. Several diameters available and just a small bit of clean up. This may work as well. Just my suggestion.

[fkuaso]

i use plastruct with a lighter or candle trick is to mark where you want your bend. and rotate the piece while over the heat. theres a real butter point being its pretty cheap but a few packages and practice to get it right. after you hit that butter point its a walk in the park.